It is a Thursday night and the old town of Nicosia is calm yet there is always a buzz within the walls. Beer bottles clink, coffee cups are brewing, guide books are open. I park my car in the zig-zagged streets and make my way to the recently-opened Ella Jazz Bar on Lykourgou 7 Street, where The Winery used to be. It now hosts Nicosia’s newest music venue and, as
